Gottlieb Volcano Club –DANGER, DANGER, DANGER! | All clubs (…members only!)

Ratings and Reviews of Online Casinos

 


1. Sol Casino

Sol casino keyword

Free Sign-Up Bonus: 80 Free Spins ( Free Sign-Up Bonus Link )

 

First Deposit Bonus: 100% up to €/$ 500 ( Registration Link )

 

ENTER SOL CASINO

 


 

2. Fresh Casino

fresh casino

Free Sign-Up Bonus: 150 Free Spins ( Free Sign-Up Bonus Link )

 

First Deposit Bonus: 100% up to €/$ 300 ( Registration Link )

 

SIGN-UP FRESH CASINO

 


 

 

3. Jet Casino

jet casino

Free Sign-Up Bonus: 60 Free Spins ( Free Sign-Up Bonus Link )

 

First Deposit Bonus: 200% up to €/$ 500 ( Registration Link )

 

SIGN-UP JET CASINO

 


 

 

 

Gottlieb Volcano Club –DANGER, DANGER, DANGER! | All clubs (…members only!)

Anyone else love Volcano?

My machine had some ball wear. Must have been really popular, back in the 80’s!

IMG_0672_(resized).jpg

Thanks to the internet, I could print off a reference photo and try my best at hand drawing/colouring small details.

IMG_1350_(resized).jpg

The black clouds were a bit tricky to replicate, so used a terry towel cloth for some sort of similar pattern. First 2pac clear down, so had some fish eyes to start with.
After two more clear coats down, the clear smoothed out.

IMG_1751_(resized).jpg

Inserts were pre-scanned, repaired (best I could in photo shop) and reapplied with water slide decals. Came out ok, when backlit.

Vol3_(resized).jpg

Vol5_(resized).jpg

New pop bumper bodies/caps and plastics from PBR installed.

IMG_1816_(resized).jpg

I still have some major work to do on the outer backglass. A lot of artwork has de-laminated and missing, so planning on scanning into Photoshop and try to replicate on a new piece of glass.

IMG_1744_(resized).jpg

Unfortunately my machine was missing the sound/speech board, so am currently using a Pascal PI-FX sound only, sound board, until I can source an original replacement. This is what I have.

http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php

Also own a Haunted House which is a really nice machine, but I still prefer to play Volcano with all the harder shots and the multi-ball feature.

Join the club and share the Volcano love!

Really cool game with unique playfield and gameplay. Vocano, volcano, volcano…..just sold mine. Near perfect playfield.

IMG_2969_(resized).JPG

Love this game and just re-joined the club after 30 years! Had one when I was little in 1986. Looking for both backglasses if someone has one or both to sell!

Count me in!

0609161506_(resized).jpg

0609161506a_(resized).jpg

Anyone interested in this lamp – would make a great topper for Volcano – you can see the exact one I’m offering here – it’s pretty cool:

-Nate

Need a little help bringing a Volcano back to life. Man, this table has a saga. It was perfect at purchase, outside of a rough and tumble cab, the thing is pristine. And then, in transport the SUV carrying the table got in a head-on car collision. Car veered into oncoming traffic and clipped the SUV. Guy going wrong way didn’t make it. . .

Anyway. The rear door of the SUV had to be cut off to get the table out. Accident was that bad. Surprisingly, the cab is no worse for the wear, the back glass is fine. Everything looks the same.

Buuuuut, the power supply seems to be jacked now. Turning on the pin all the table lights come on, and the flashers in the backglass go, but none of the displays light up, no sound, no real boot up of the game.

Checked all the fuses, all fine. Looking at the power board, the 12v LED lights up but the 5v is dead. Checked out the test points on the power board and the only one in range is TP1 (was 66.8, TP1 is 60v). TP2 is running 51.7 (TP2 42v), 3 is ground, TP4 is basically zero (0.41, TP4 is 5v) and TP5 is back up to 2.99 (TP5 is 8v).

So it looks like a power board problem. Is it fixable? Is there some other thing I’m overlooking? Scrap it and get a new power board (they’re not that expensive)?. LOVE the sys80 tables, but maaaaybe not a good place to start collecting pins? But if you find yourself in the deep end, it’s sink or swim (no electronics experience, but I have access to someone who has extensive experience).

I’ll attach a pic of the power board for reference. All tests were performed with the connector to the logic board detached.

IMG_0457 (resized).JPG

I had a Volcano a couple of years ago, great game, my friend hated it since he always drained alot LOL

Fixed the playfield on mine.

IMG_1868 (resized).JPG
13022320_10154119385933756_1458291264_n (resized).jpg

Traded it away for a Cybernaut.

I would like to join also.
Played this game at Pin-Maine-ia in 2009 and have been looking for one since.

I finally bought one in Allentown this year.
Pictures to follow.

I just joined the club myself… My game sits in my current collection of 8 games (chronologically arranged) between Genie and Devil’s Dare and looks amazing!! The game is set for three ball as it should be, because in 5 ball, there is no added incentive for starting multiball. In 3-ball play, playfield scoring is 2x until you are down to one ball again.

I also have the terrifically hard bounce in bonus (switch 31 set to on) of an extra ball for saving the ball from that cruddy outlane and one-shot-ing it into the fire pit. It’s a really interesting bounce in and I think I will be in the practice of letting new players to the game pratice the save with the glass off until they get a feel for the gentle BOP required to rescue it.

While I’m at it, I also like to explain the ball save on the left, how to get it, and how to use it.

I was worried when I first got this game that it’d be too easy, I couldn’t be more wrong!! With the odd placed everything and the lightnight quick reflexes required with a good dose of luck, It’s ANOTHER DEVIL’S DARE IN MY HOUSE!!!

60567675208__8EF85D65-D57A-49F3-851D-F0E3058714B7 (resized).JPG

2 years later, i still enjoy the game.
There is another volcano club thread as well.
Enjoy

Count me in here too… where is the other thread?

Cross posting this across various forums in order to get most exposure. I am bringing a 1981 Volcano back from the dead and restoring it to add to my Gottlieb collection. I am so close to completion and playing the machine, that it is now driving me crazy.

I have now hit a road block and wall, and I am stumped and don’t know where to continue with my troubleshooting. The machine was energized, and booted when start button was depressed. Started checking all kickers, pop bumpers, slingshots, switches, etc. and found the right side drop target bank had an issue. Found the drive transistor (2N3055) was shorted, so replaced it along with a new solenoid coil. HOWEVER, I did not check the position of the diode and it was backwards. After the drop target reset would not reset, with new coil, I found my mistake and and corrected it. The drive transistor and pre-transistor are both good.

Sorry for the long, back history but here is the current situation:

1). When turned ON, the pinball boots and I have full attract mode and all displays. The high score to date also cycles as normal.

2.) At the start up THUNK (solenoids), the ball release energizes and allows the 1st ball to roll into the shoot ( before any start button is depressed).

3.) When START button is depressed, the outhole kicks the last ball into the holding shoot, BUT no ball release or anything else. The 1st player is flashing “0” as the display is showing game ready, BUT there is no action:

• no flippers
• no rollovers, switches, slingshots, etc.
• only general illumination lighting with a couple of insert lights that stay on
• the pinball seems to be “ dead “

Does anyone have any insight, knowledge, or guidance of what the problem may be? Any leads or direction where to look? I appreciate any help or assistance. Thank you all.

Hi Snowtrooper – How are you getting on with this? Any progress?

I have a Volcano and happy to try and help.

Mine behaves like this:
– When the machine is turned on, the Fire Pit solenoid fires (thunk) just that one.
– When a game is started, if the machine doesn’t get 3 balls into the holding chute, then it’ll sit there in the state you describe indefinitely.

So:
– Make sure there are three balls in the thing!
– Make sure they all sit in the holding chute, or in out hole when a game starts
– When a game starts, you should see them all make their way to the holding chute, *then* a ball is release to the lane

First thing I’d check is the switch in the holding chute at the 3rd ball position. It will message that all balls are present and it’s time to release a ball into play.

Hey everyone! Looking for help again. Still trying to figure out how to reduce the heat coming from the displays. The green score coverings are actually melting away on the backglass. Curious if the metallic grounding wire is the problem as there is none as expected inside the interior of the playfield cabinet (the kind that goes behind the leg plates, coin opening door and connects to that green and yellow wire inside the playfield cabinet). When I purchased volcano, the operator manual included was a photocopy of the original and missing several pages and the schematics…so I am confused what to check or how to diagnose the problem ( I am a total amateur with limited experiance. Not an electronic technician). I have checked the outlet in the room and it is fine. I have replaced the original power cable as it was missing the bottom grounding prong from it (I wish I knew that before the purchase). Will double check to confirm if that is the problem. One of the display lights seems to have white circles instead of black (yet it turns on…). Ideas, thoughts, and advice are appreciated.

Please let me know where I may find the locations of connections, chips, transistors, capicitors, boards or solenoids in lay terms so I may have an easier time finding them (without the full and/or schematics, it is hard to find things listed with a letter and number without directions). Thanks

Quoted from Silverballbrain:

Hey everyone! Looking for help again. Still trying to figure out how to reduce the heat coming from the displays. The green score coverings are actually melting away on the backglass.

All five displays are doing this?? Very abnormal. Can you post a photo of the melting? I have never seen that before.

Mine are cool/cold to the touch even while operating on a warm day. No idea why they would be that hot, and frankly, do not understand how they could run so hot and not burn out. Can you take temps with an IR probe to isolate the heat source… i.e. section of board, glass, chip, etc?

Could there be something else in the head that is getting hot and trapping the heat inside? Can you run with the head open and examine more closely to verify the heat source?

Volcano’s cabinetry is vented from top to bottom. There are slots on the underside of the machine. Under the wooden power board in the main cabinet under the playfield there is an airspace. Below this airspace are slots in the bottom of the cabinet The transformers run warm and draw air in through these slots, which travels under the playfield through to the bottom of the head before being drawn out the metal vents on the top rear of the head. Is air able to get to these vents? You don’t have stuff piled up under the machine? The machine is on legs, not sitting flat on its base on a table or something? You don’t have a towel, draperies, or some other obstructions blocking the air vents?

Quoted from Silverballbrain:

Curious if the metallic grounding wire is the problem as there is none as expected inside the interior of the playfield cabinet (the kind that goes behind the leg plates, coin opening door and connects to that green and yellow wire inside the playfield cabinet).

That is very doubtful. This is the safety ground. It is meant to protect … so if something goes wrong electrically and if voltage touches the coin door, this ground will help prevent a possible electrocution situation.

Quoted from Silverballbrain:

When I purchased volcano, the operator manual included was a photocopy of the original and missing several pages and the schematics…

I bought my manual from eBay but Pinball Resource sells them too. There is a copyright issue that Gottlieb enforces and the only PDF I saw online was missing more than half of the schematics. While you wait, you may have better luck finding a PDF online for a Black Hole or Haunted House. Both are system 80 and the schematics are virtually identical.

I need to make a new subway cover because mine had a boogered top edge catching the ball that I had to cut away. The previous owner used small nails to try to hold it down making it worse. Cutting the bad parts away was the only real improvement. It’s a lot better, but the metal is stretched and the ball still gets caught here. There’s not enough left to keep cutting away so the only real solution is to make a whole new cover.

Can somebody remove and carefully trace their subway cover with a fine pencil, and mail the paper tracing to me? I know it’s a lot of work to remove and it’s a lot to ask somebody. To thank and compensate you for the work of tracing & mailing, I will make an extra metal cover and mail it to you. PM me if interested.

If nobody is willing to do that, maybe a photo will help enough. A similar shot like the one below might provide enough information, but a tracing would be best. I need to see the whole top edge between the top two holes.

I’ve ordered stainless steel 0.007″ thick, which is the same material and thickness as the original. I plan to use a small flat grinding disc wheel to make the cuts. I think a metal shear or snips would likely distort the edges too much. I purchased enough stainless to make 100 subway covers, so I’m not worried about experimenting to figure this out. Hey, if it turns out well… if anyone needs a new subway cover… just sayin’.

This is the edge I had to cut away.

IMG_2724 (resized).JPG

Added 173 days ago:

Correction: 0.006″ thick stainless, not 0.007″ as previously posted.

Added 168 days ago:

I ended up figuring this out and making two new flaps. Details and photos posted in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fwiw-gottlieb-volcano-needs-a-new-subway-flap

Added 34 days ago:

Type 302 stainless steel

sparky672 Sorry I have taken so long to get back to you. Long couple of months of catch up. I noticed this occuring after letting the machine run for thirty minutes of play. The green was completely covered perfectly when I received it. 566F087A-A6A0-4388-96BD-56C81E942B63 (resized).jpeg

Now in the credit area and lower left (3rd player display)31825AF0-293A-4E39-AC7E-0E9D4EC12968 (resized).jpeg

981343D6-5CF3-4051-8D4D-A1CF6DEEE5D8 (resized).jpeg

The display are hot to begin with. I am concern some of them may not being receiving electricity properly.
23013551-BC48-42D6-9309-3852821ADAA2 (resized).jpeg

I am unsure how to verify the heat sources but it seemed to feel the majority was coming from the displays. (Never owned or used an Infrared probe before)

Definetly nothing covering the openings in the bottom of cabinet. No boxes or drapes to do that.

-Thank you for the suggestions. Will aquire a manual soon.

They are less than $20 on Amazon. “IR temperature gun”

https://a.co/d/3lwFdL3

You point it at something and it tells you the temperature. It’s a very cheap way to get fairly accurate temperature readings on a pinpoint.

I would not use the machine until you figure this out. You already have damage on the transparent ink and I don’t even know how your displays have survived so far.

Again, all FIVE or just some?

We have Volcano at my local pinball league. The owner hooked up a powered subwoofer to the game (Polk Psw10). The sub on this game is the best in all of pinball.

There are lots of games at the league 50 or 60 from new to em. No game sounds better with a sub.

Highly recommend getting a sub if you have a Volcano.

Quoted from Silverballbrain:

sparky672 Sorry I have taken so long to get back to you. Long couple of months of catch up. I noticed this occuring after letting the machine run for thirty minutes of play. The green was completely covered perfectly when I received it. [quoted image]
Now in the credit area and lower left (3rd player display)[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The display are hot to begin with. I am concern some of them may not being receiving electricity properly.
[quoted image]
I am unsure how to verify the heat sources but it seemed to feel the majority was coming from the displays. (Never owned or used an Infrared probe before)
Definetly nothing covering the openings in the bottom of cabinet. No boxes or drapes to do that.
-Thank you for the suggestions. Will aquire a manual soon.

Try some fresh double sided adhesive foam tape between the glass display and the circuit board. This is a fairly common problem. From the pictures it looks like at least two of the displays are no longer sitting flat against the circuit boards. The display may lean down and rub against the tinted display windows if the old double sided adhesive tape has dried out.

Quoted from Biffbar:

Try some fresh double sided adhesive foam tape between the glass display and the circuit board. This is a fairly common problem. From the pictures it looks like at least two of the displays are no longer sitting flat against the circuit boards. The display may lean down and rub against the tinted display windows if the old double sided adhesive tape has dried out.

I think you missed his original post; he’s talking about extreme heat melting the green tint.

Quoted from Silverballbrain:

…Still trying to figure out how to reduce the heat coming from the displays. The green score coverings are actually melting away on the backglass…

If that’s the case, double stick tape is not going to hold for long, which is probably why they are leaning in the first place.

My displays don’t get warm, let alone hot enough to melt the tint.

I don’t even understand what mechanism would cause a Futaba VFD to cook without quickly burning itself out. The OP is not being very communicative and I suspect the heat must be coming from someplace other than the actual displays.

Quoted from sparky672:

I think you missed his original post; he’s talking about extreme heat melting the green tint.

If that’s the case, double stick tape is not going to hold for long, which is probably why they are leaning in the first place.
My displays don’t get warm, let alone hot enough to melt the tint.
I don’t even understand what mechanism would cause a Futaba VFD to cook without quickly burning itself out. The OP is not being very communicative and I suspect the heat must be coming from someplace other than the actual displays.

I’ve seen the UDN6118A on a display run so hot it literally caused the paint to peel off the backglass on a Haunted House once. You could see the chip on the display board clearly while playing, and just in that spot. But the funny thing was the display worked perfectly. I wouldn’t be surprised if this was the case here too.

Quoted from Redfive05:

I’ve seen the UDN6118A on a display run so hot it literally caused the paint to peel off the backglass on a Haunted House once. You could see the chip on the display board clearly while playing, and just in that spot. But the funny thing was the display worked perfectly. I wouldn’t be surprised if this was the case here too.

Until the OP responds, we’re just speculating, but that is interesting. Would seem weird if he has multiple displays with this issue, but it’s the only thing that makes sense until the OP investigates and reports back. Although that does not explain why he’s only seeing damage to the tint, unless the tint is a lot more susceptible to heat than the paint.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you’re enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors?
Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!